Challenging Hikes - BC's North Coast Trail

Cape Scott Provincial Park is relatively flat, with aindicating how high the eagle population is in this
good trail system.  Hiking trails within the park leadarea. 
off to the Cape Scott Light Station, Hansen'sAfter the upland trail on the first leg come creek
Lagoon, and to a several outstanding beaches.  Thecrossings and beach travel.  The creek crossings can
addition in 2008 of the North Coast Trail has openedbe challenging because of swift water.  At the end
up a number of other spectacular beaches, shorelineof the day, it is often too time consuming to take
features, and upland ecosystems that are hardlyoff boots and wade across the rivers, but doing so
seen anywhere else in the world.  Getting throughhelps prevent the problems of wet feet and wet
this new trail is difficult, however, adding a newboots.  There are two challenges to beach travel.
challenging hike to British Columbia's coastal hikingThe first beach travel problem is the speed and
network. effort to walk on a beach.  Some of the beaches
Several features make the trail difficult and the travelare sandy, some are cobblestone.  With either type,
relatively slow.  Much of the trail is fraught withthe footing is somewhat soft and the travel can slow
condition dependent spots, each spot depending ondown a bit.  It is very tiring to walk on the beach,
whether it is raining, or whether the tide is in or out. but psychologically it is great.  You can see how far
And of course, transportation to and from the trailyou are travelling and tell you are making progress. 
has its challenges, as well. Cobblestones can be quite difficult, especially on
If you are starting from the east end of the trail, atsloped beaches.  Many of the middle beaches on the
Shushartie Bay, you will need to be taken in byNorth Coast Trail are cobblestone.  The way
water taxi from Port Hardy.  This can be a bitbetween Cape Sutil and Shuttleworth Bight has a
pricey, and currently runs at about $110 per personlarge section of cobblestone beaches, and it is called
for 3 people.  The price goes down for morethe Sutil Scramble. 
people, but expect about $100 each.  The way outThe next obstacle has to do with the tides.  The
is another matter.  The Cape Scott Water Taxi andtides complicate two things.  Some spots are
Marine Services has combined with the North Coastimpassable at high tides, so timing is important.  This
Trail Shuttle to provide transportation both in andmeans that you need to have the tide tables with
out, trailhead to trailhead.  This makes it easier toyou and be able to interpret them.  Some places
plan a complete hike through all of Cape Scott Parkhave upland work arounds to pass these tide
now. dependent spots, some do not.  A good section of
The first leg of the hike out of Shushartie Bay headsthe Sutil Scramble is walking over pocket beaches
immediately up.  So the first struggle is uphill, pullingand getting around the headlands between them. 
up with a rope to get onto a plateau.  The climbSome walk arounds take steep, rope scramble
from there is pretty steady up to a larger plateaucourses up and over narrow divides, then back down
with coastal bog terrain.  This area is quiteon ropes again.  Low tide walks around the
remarkable.  There is one section of the Westheadlands speed things up considerably. 
Coast Trail that is particularly similar, but not a lot ofIntermediate tides mean judging whether climbing the
it.  A fair section of the bog is protected byrocks at the edge of the headlands will be faster and
boardwalk.  The boardwalks are new, so they aresafer than taking the walk-around trail.  The really
level and good, but that does not prevent themamazing part of this area, particularly on the Sutil
from being extremely slippery when wet.  The hikingScramble, it the intimate look at sea stacks, sea
pace must slow down on the boardwalk to preventcaves, and tide pools while moving around the
slips and falls.  This is not a bad thing.  So much ofheadlands. 
the bog is small in size, including the trees.  A slowerParts of the forest trails are old settler routes and
pace means more attention goes to the scenery andhave been lined underneath with logs, creating a
appreciating the incredible diversity of life there.  Thecorduroy effect.  The corduroy can be slippery and
upland bog shows up throughout most of the rest ofin places where it is completely rotten, big mud holes
the hike from time to time, but the first day is full ofdot the trail.  Generally, straight through the mud
it.hole is the best way, but sometimes one has a
The upland trails contain some deadfall trees thatdeeper meaning to it, i.e., you are going to sink to
have to be climbed over or through, but also vastyour knees.  The history here is fascinating and a
arrays of root systems that have to be negotiated. good study beforehand or with a guide along can
These root systems provide some footinghelp you appreciate the challenges that the early
opportunities, but are also usually slippery.  Climbingsettlers had in trying to carve out homesteads in this
up and over some of these systems can bewild place.
strenuous and slow.  Careful foot placement and aAt the end of the day, after 7 to 9 kilometers of
properly adjusted backpack are absolute essentialstravel, you really feel like you have been
for travelling over these obstacles.  The benefits aresomewhere.  It is not exactly bushwacking, but not
travelling through sections of old growth cedar,far from it.  The ruggedness of the trail is
hemlock, and sitka spruce.  The trees areexhausting; the beauty of the scenery is exhilarating;
magnificent and the birdsong coming from them isand the abundance of life is awe-inspiring here on this
like a serenade.  Many aeries are atop tall trees,boundary of land and ocean.