| When considering a belay, a belay test should always | | | | try to bear in mind the following. (For a more detailed |
| be conducted. So as to ensure the belay positions | | | | explanation check out my previous articles on |
| stability and security, and ability to support a fall by | | | | belaying). |
| the climber. | | | | Determine the guide and brake hands. The rope runs |
| In order to do this the belayer will route their safety | | | | from the climber through the belayer's guide hand, |
| line to an anchor point, and then position themselves | | | | around the belay mechanism (body or mechanical), |
| for a mechanical or body belay. The belayer will then | | | | and to the brake hand. Ensure the rope slide |
| shout "On Belay Test". | | | | smoothly. NEVER RELEASE THE BRAKE HAND FROM |
| The climber will respond "Testing" and proceeds to | | | | THE CLIMBING ROPE UNTIL THE CLIMBER IS |
| test the belay with three separate tests. The climber | | | | ATTACHED TO AN ANCHOR. |
| faces sideways to the vertical rock, with the guide | | | | Ensure the remainder of the rope is laid out so it can |
| hand closest to the rock leading to the belayer. The | | | | run freely through the brake hand. Gloves may be |
| climbing rope is routed under the buttocks, and the | | | | advisable when belaying to reduce friction on the |
| brake hand is placed in the hollow portion of the | | | | hands and rope burns, these can easily get infected. |
| opposite (guide hand side) hip. | | | | Make sure the rope doesn't run over sharp rock |
| The climber then takes all slack out of the rope | | | | edges (padding may be required). |
| between the climber and the belayer, and sits down | | | | Anticipate the climbers needs by keeping alert to |
| with approximately a third of their bodyweight. | | | | their movements. Avoid letting too much slack |
| Following this the climber removes the additional slack | | | | develop in the rope through constant use of the |
| created by their bodyweight and sits down using | | | | guide hand. Keep all slack out of the rope leading to |
| approximately two-thirds of their bodyweight. | | | | the climber, you will then be aware of their |
| Finally the climber then removes all remaining slack | | | | movements and be ready if required. Don't take up |
| out of the rope and sits down using all their | | | | slack too quickly, you could throw the climber off |
| bodyweight. The climber then springs up and out of | | | | balance. When taking up slack, bring the brake hand |
| the belay test stance, allowing the rope to go slack. | | | | just behind the guide hand. This will allow the brake |
| The belayer feels the rope slacken, and if satisfied | | | | hand to slide back and remain constantly on the rope.. |
| with the belay position, will shout "Climb". The climber | | | | Just a few practise sessions will make you a |
| should respond with "Up Rope", or "Climbing". After | | | | competent belayer and a much safer climber. Safe |
| detaching their safety line and is prepared to climb. | | | | climbers enjoy their climbing more. |
| To recap briefly some of the main points of belaying, | | | | |