Climbing Carabiners - A Climber's Guide

Carabiners are an integral piece of climbing gear. Theyimportant advantage is that due to the gate having
are the strong links which allow almost all systemsless solid mass it is less likely to seize open. A
within climbing to work. Most climbers know thatproblem which once they have been used a lot is
there are different types of carabiner. Most alsolikely to occur with solid gates.
understand what some of those difference mean.Screw Gate Carabiners
There are many differences however which mostScrew-gate karabiners come in 3 main types. Firstly
are completely unaware of and if properlythere are small screw-gate carabiners. These are light
understood make big differences to your climbing.and strong and are ideal for using in belays where
The main factor which differentiates a carabiner isthey will link just 2 pieces of kit and won't need
whether it is a snap-gate carabiner or screw-gatemuch adjustment. The second type is large
carabiner. The difference between these is simple: ascrew-gate carabiners. These are used when using
screw-gate carabiner is one which, when the gate isthicker ropes or if an anchor needs to accommodate
closed, you can screw it shut so it is locked. This2 ropes. The third type is a HMS screw-gate
type is obviously much more secure than a snapcarabiner. The difference between this and a large
gate and is mostly used for anchors in the belay orscrew-gate is not very obvious to those not looking
to belay with.for it. For this reason large screw-gates are often
Snap Gate Carabinersused when a HMS would have done the job much
Snap gate carabiners can also be divided into twobetter. A HMS gate has a flat top side. For this
groups, solid gate and wire gate. A solid gatereason it often looks like a pear. This flat edge is
carabiner has a solid bar which closes the gate whichdesigned to make belaying with an Italian (Munter)
is about the same thickness as the rest of thehitch much easier and cause less friction. HMS
carabiner. Wire gates on the other hand have gatescarabiners are also very useful if you need to attach
which are made of wire. The differences between2 clove hitches to a single point in a belay.
the two are fairly marginal. The first advantage ofSo long as you are using a screw gate when you
the wire gate is that it is lighter, a big advantage,should be, not using the ideal one will not put yourself
especially when sport climbing. Wire gates are alsoin danger. That said, knowing how to use each one
less susceptible to freezing in winter than the solidto your best advantage will make your climbing both
gate carabiners. The third and probably mostsmoother and easier.