Mount Kenya - Up High at God's Mountain

Mount Kenya is Africa's second highest mountain,Meru, Kamweti, and Timau. It is highly recommended
after Kilimanjaro. It is estimated to be 2.5 million yearsthat you stick to the three popular routes. But if you
old, and Kilimanjaro at 750,00 years of age is really anhave a good reason for doing otherwise, or indeed
upstart. Time has really taken its toll, and the peak isfor pioneering your own route, you are required to
thought to have dropped from 6,500 m those millionsregister with the park authorities.
of years ago to 5,199 m today. The mountain is anThe Naro Moru route approaches the mountain from
extinct volcano, whose plug forms what is today thethe west and is easily the most popular. The trail is
peak area. The crater was long ago, done to death,well serviced with rest huts and is the fastest way
by nature's untiring erosion agents.to the peaks. It is however the steepest and
Mount Kenya is an awe-inspiring spectacle thatclimbers vulnerable to AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness)
dominates the central Kenyan highlands. It is perhapsmay experience difficulties. The hike will take 4 days,
understandable that the Kikuyu people who reside onthough you may opt for an additional day at the
its lower slopes thought it fit for Gods' abode. And itsummit. You start with a fairly steep 5-hour walk
inspires people in strange ways. In 1943, Felicefrom Park Gate to Met Station (3,050 m). This is
Benuzzi, an Italian prisoner of war held at Nanyuki atwhere you spend the first night and acclimatize to
the base of the mountain, and two companions,the thinning mountain air.
escaped and attempted to scale the summit. WithThe next day is the longest and you will walk, under
just a few handmade climbing tools, he managedvarying terrain, for anywhere between 8 and 10
reach Point Lenana, the mountain's third highest peak.hours. You spend the night at Mackinders Camp
But Benuzzi was at least an accomplished(4,200 m), in the vicinity of the peak area. You really
mountaineer. In 1988, the Mount Kenya Rescueshould have an early night on this day. Very early the
Team discovered and retrieved an elder of the Merunext morning -2.00 a.m is the usual time- you set out
people way up at the chilly heights of Peak Nelionto attempt Point Lenana. The mountain is generally
(5,188 m). Only experts, with proper equipment andclear in the morning and stormy in the afternoon- so,
guides reach Nelion. He appeared unaware of thethe idea is for you to ascend and descend the peak
feat he had accomplished and was perturbed by thewhen you have good traction. This is the part of the
fuss his rescuers raised. He explained his mission washike where some experience symptoms of altitude
"going to God". He was kitted in a manner you willrelated ailments.
not see recommended in any guide book- in a singleIt will take you about 5 hours to reach Lenana. Here
blanket and open sandals. The animals do weird thingsyou must take some photos, to show the folks back
too: a few years ago, the frozen bodies of a leopardhome how you fared at the top of God's Mountain.
and colobus monkey were discovered at Nelion.Afterwards, you descend in 3 hours to Mackinders
Mount Kenya is located 180 km to the north ofCamp for breakfast. Then ascending back to Teleki
Nairobi. The mountain falls within Mount KenyaValley via Camel Rocks, you reach Met Station in
National Park. The park is made up of a protectedabout 4 hours. The night rest is at Met Station,
area above 3,200 m altitude, together with two smallbefore the final descent to Park Gate.
salients reaching to 2,450 m along the Naro Moru andThe Sirimon route has its base at Nanyuki to the
Sirimon trails. It was set up in 1949 and covers annorth of the mountain. The route offers easier
area of 715 sq km. It is further surrounded by theclimbing than the Naro Moru trail and is also more
Mount Kenya National Reserve, which extends overscenic. It normally takes 5 days up and down the
2,075 sq km. The park has the distinction of beingmountain. You start with a 3-4 hours walk through
simultaneously a World Heritage Site and anrain forest to overnight at Old Moses camp (3,300
International Biosphere Reservem). Next day after breakfast you hike through the
The mountain is made up of three main zones: themoorland and the Liki and Mackinder valleys. You
rocky peak region, the afro-alpine moorland with itsreach Shipton's camp (4,200 m) after a 6-7 hour hike.
scattering of giant vegetation, and the extensiveYou spend the night here before setting out very
lower slopes covered in mountain forest and bamboo.early the next morning to attempt Point Lenana.
The astonishing ecological diversity is one of theThe Chogoria route begins at the town of the same
attractions of this giant. The ecological processesname to the west of the mountain. This is the by far
that have brought about the afro-alpine flora inmost beautiful and scenic of the popular routes. You
particular intrigue scientists. There are 81 species ofwill enjoy dramatic views of waterfalls, valleys, tarns
plants here that are found nowhere else in the world.and rugged rock formations. But the trail is not so
In the lower forest zone, there is plenty of wildlifepopular because it is also the longest and therefore
including buffalo, elephant, sykes monkey andtoughest. It will take you 6 days to ascend and
bushbuck. The animals are however generally difficultdescend the mountain. There are no usable service
to see. Further up, the animals are even scarcerhuts along the route and you must carry a tent
though hyena, leopard, buffalo and civet cats havealong. Whichever route you use, you can prolong
been sighted. The only animal you are likely to see inyour enjoyment of these heights by taking a day to
the upper alpine zones is the rock hyrax. Though it isdo the Summit Circuit Path.
the size of a domestic cat, it resembles a rat more.It is important that you take enough water - about 4
The seemingly humble rock hyrax has some powerfulto 6 litres daily- to keep dehydration at bay.
relatives in the animal kingdom and it counts theDehydration makes you more vulnerable to altitude
elephant as its biological kin.sickness and hypothermia. Hypothermia is lowering of
The mountain attracts over 30,000 enthusiasts everybody temperature and symptoms include clumsiness
year. Point Lenana (4,985 m), the so-called trekkersand disorientation. Victims of the condition need to be
peak, can be reached by any reasonably fit andquickly provided with a warm and dry environment.
suitably prepared person. The summit has the twinAt heights above 3,000 m, oxygen levels reduce and
peaks of Batian (5,199 m) and Nelion (5,188 m), and isaltitude sickness stalks the trekker. That is why a
accessible to only those with technical mountaineeringfast climb is not advised, as you have no opportunity
and rock climbing experience. This mountain is not anto acclimatize. The symptoms for Acute Mountain
easy one to conquer and each year not more thanSickness (AMS) are nausea, headache, fatigue and
100 climbers make it to the twin summit peaks.general malaise. You should always descend to lower
Mount Kenya is in fact considered to be morealtitude with the onset of symptoms.
technically challenging than the higher KilimanjaroOther more severe medical conditions that can arise
(5,894 m). But those who make it to the topare High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE) and High
experience some of Africa's finest rock and iceAltitude Cerebral Edema (HACE). The coming of
climbing.HAPE is betrayed by a dry cough and difficulty in
The mountain has very many fans and especiallybreathing. HACE is marked by slurred speech, severe
fascinates technical climbers. The author andheadache and disoriented behaviour. HACE and HAPE
mountaineer, Rick Ridgeway - author of the Sevenare both potentially fatal and you should always
Summits, declares that of all the worlds' mountainsdescend to lower altitude and seek treatment. To
this is his favourite. Halford Mackinder planned and ledreduce chances of mountain sickness, it is advisable
the first expedition on record to reach the summit into acclimatize by spending an extra night near Park
1899. But if the Meru elder mentioned above isGate or at the mountain huts above 4,000 m. If you
anything to go by, the locals must have long agotemper your zeal for the peaks and take a slow
been to the mountaintop. The Mackinder trip was asensible hike you will enjoy the adventure and will be
great success and his party discovered many speciesall right.
of animal and plant life then unknown in Europe. AYou will generally need a guide and porters so that
new species of eagle owl, for example, was firstyou can concentrate on the hike. Always go for
recorded by this expedition and subsequently namedthose who have high altitude experience and are
after Mackinder.accredited by the park authorities. They will know
Though Mount Kenya is practically on the equator,the routes, and a good one is worth his weight in
you will find snow and ice and even glaciers.gold, in event of sickness and other contingencies.
However, in the one hundred years since MackinderThe porters shoulder the heavy stuff while you carry
conquered the mountain, the number of glaciers hasa daypack with essentials such warm clothing, fire
dropped from 18 to only 7 that remain today. Themaking capability, some food and drinks, a flashlight
culprit for this is the global climate change that hasand first aid kit.
accelerated in recent years. Scientists tell us thatThe stuff you must bring along includes: warm
during the ice ages large glaciers reached below 3,000clothing, waterproof hiking boots, rain suit, sleeping
m. Today the largest glacier is the Lewis Glacier atbags, flashlights, sunglasses and hand gloves. Many
4,600 m. The continuing retreat of glaciers isclimbers find it expedient to buy a Mount Kenya
expected to have a negative impact on downstreamclimbing package in order to take advantage of those
eco-systems, not to mention the scenic appeal ofwith local knowledge. Such a package will include
the mountain.transport, accommodation in the mountain huts,
Mount Kenya is the source of Tana River- Kenya'smeals while on the climb, park entry fees, services of
biggest river- and was for many years seen as anan experienced mountain guide and porters and
inexhaustible water fountain. Not any more- the losscooks.
of glaciers and forest cover has brought thisThe main rainy season in the Mount Kenya region falls
assumption into disrepute. The loss of forest cover isfrom late March to June, with secondary rains
particularly worrying, because it is avoidable. How toappearing from late October to December. You can
save the forests of Mount Kenya has long engagedclimb the mountain at any time of year but the most
environmentalist Wangari Maathai -the 2004 Nobelcomfortable climb is achieved in the dry months of
Peace Prize winner. She was born on the lowerJanuary and February and from July to October.
slopes of the mountain and has in her lifetimeAfter your climb, you can relax at some of the
witnessed the changes up at the mountain.excellent hotels and resorts in the Mount Kenya area.
You can reach the peak area by taking one of threeBefore you leave the country, take to heart the
routes: Naro Moru, Sirimon and Chogoria. Good roadssentiments of the Italian climber Carlo Spinelli, who
will get you form Nairobi to Naro Moru, Nanyuki andsaid: "I consider myself a nature lover more than a
Chogoria - the base towns for each of the trails.mountaineer, and for this reason Kenya has the best
There are alternative routes but most have fallenof both mountain and wilderness". Take time to see
into disuse and you need superior navigation skills andwildlife on a Kenya safari in this region or in other
stamina to attempt them. This includes: Burguret,parts of the country.