Mountain Climbing in the Crimea, Ukraine - the Region Offers a Specacular Scenery and Opportunity for the Rock Climber

Mountain climbing in UkraineKrylo Lebedya (Swan's wing). 5 minutes on foot from
In the Crimean peninsula, referred to as the Crimea,Koshka and you will find more than 30 routes grading
is a beautiful place in the summer months, the climatefrom 6a-8a. Route height range from 20-30 meters.
and the amount of sunny days makes this a perfectThe cliff is on the beach. As there are three sectors
place for the climbers and nature lovers in general.differently directed, it is possible to climb almost all
The Crimean peninsula occupies an area of aroundthe day long.
26,000 sq.km.The nearest international airport is KievParus (near vill. Foros). The climbing site Parus is
but a closer international airport is located insituated to the about 2 km west from Foros, which
Simferopol. There are 30 curative lakes, 120 thermalis around 50 km from Yalta, 15 minutes walking up
medical springs, 10,000 historical and culturalfrom the highway going from Sevastopol to Yalta.
monuments in the peninsula.The cliff looks like a "sail in the ocean of stones".
The Crimea (Krim) attracts mountain bikers, tourists,There are about 30 routes grading from 6b-7c. Near
rock-climbers etc. 3 main ridges are found in theto Chelebi, that is a big wall site. There are some
mountains of Crimea. The main one reaches a heightmulti-pitch routes (4 pitches) leading to the top (crux
of 1545 meters above sea level, the Internal,up to grade 6c+). This is the real "place of the
represented by separate rocky massifs which heightspower".
are ranging from 500 to 600 meters above the seaBakhchisarai. There are about 100 bolted rock climbing
level, and the External with insignificant heights. Theroutes grading from 5A up to 7C in 5 different
Southern coast is known for its mild climate. That is asectors. And there are up to 20 routes in each
narrow ground strip between the Main ridge and thesector within 15-25 minutes walking distance between
Black sea.them. Route height is ranging from 8 to 23 m. Lime
There are at least 11 nice climbing sites with fullyrocks here are quite young, often overhanging, and
equipped routes grading from climbing grades 4 to 9a.resemble much of indoor climbing walls.
The most popular sites are situated in the area ofBecause of the overhangs it is possible to climb even
Great Yalta, from the Foros to Krasnokamenka. It isif it rains. The rocks here are not sharp, so it allows
therefore convenient to stay in one of hotels in theholding hands in good condition for other sites.
city of Yalta and do one-day climbings at the variousIt is hot here in summer even in the shade at noon.
sites. Most of routes are about the climbing grade ofThat is why one climbs here in the morning or
7a. The climate in Crimea allows climbing from Aprilafternoon. Near to the site there are several shops, a
through October months.small street market and cafes. One can taste here
Nikita (5 km. from Yalta) is one of the most popularTatars and Uzbek cuisine in one of the restaurants.
mountain climbing site in Crimea. Thanks to AndreyBakhchisarai is a town well known for its sightseeing:
Vedenmeyer who were the world champion in 1995Khans' Palace, Cave monastery and Cave town. So
for his efforts making the routes in this site. Therethere is a chance to combine the climbing with some
are about 80 routes grading from 5a to 9a (accordingsightseeing as well.
to the American grades; 5.9 - 5.14). The majority ofUarch-Kaya. This is a site, situated between Foros
the routes are overhanging. Height of the site isand Simeiz at about 2 km from the highway
12-25 m. As it is a gorge, one can climb opposite cliffsbetween Yalta and Sevastopol. The site is near the
all the day long. Some of the routes were made byold road between Yalta and Sevastopol. The location
climbers from France. Very often one can meet hereis about 45 km. from Yalta. Uarch-Kaya is a site for
World famous climbers in this site.rock climbing and multi-pitch climbing. All the routes
Nikita is situated nearby Yalta and the fabulousare well equipped grading from 6a to 8c+. The total
Nikitsky botanical gardens and it is near to thenumber of routes are more than 50.
highway, so it is easy to access.Sudak. This site is situated in town of Sudak, just
Red Stone (village Krasnokamenka). It takes 20-25opposite the famous Genoese fortress. One can try
minutes by car to the east of Yalta to reach theabout 15 routes grading from 6b to 7c. It is a very
climbing site. The nearest villages are Gurzuf and thesmall site, actually just a crag. Because of rather dry
cliff is situated in the village Krasnokamenka. Thereclimate in South-East part of Crimea in summer in the
are about 100 routes grading from 5a-8c. OftenSudak is very hot. Best time for climbing is from
these routes have prolonged problems. It is best toSeptember to June.
use a 60 meters rope on this site. Shops are ratherThe Southern coast of Crimean peninsula from cape
well equipped and you can buy for every day utilitiesAiya, situated near the city called Sevastopol to
and food there. There is also a small street marketmoutain Ai-Petri raising behind the city of Yalta offers
here. Many world famous climbers make a trial in thisopportunities for multi-pitch climbing. There are also
site as well. The site has a nice scenic aspect assites found between the cities Alushta and Yalta, and
there is a lake at the east side of this rock. It is onlybetween the cities Simferopol and Alushta and near
50 minutes walking from the Black sea to the site.the city Sudak. Most of routes are not well equipped,
Simeyiz .This is a small resort village in about 15 km.so for the ascent one should bring all the gear
from the city Yalta. There are 2 crags available forneeded for mountain climbing, such as friends,
rock climbing here.stoppers, wall nuts, and occationally some skyhooks
Koshka (Cat). The mountain limits the area of theand so on. There can be found some fully equipped
village. There are bbout 30 routes grading from 5a-8a.multi-pitch routes with crux grading from 5a to 7b.
Route height range from 13-27 meters. You will findThey imply the use of quickdraws only. All the
slab at the beginning, overhangs (niches, cornices) inmulti-pitch routes are in limestone.
the above sections. Lots of juniper trees are foundSites to visit would be Chelebi, Foros, Uarch-Kaya,
at the foot. A 4-pitch route with crux up to 6c+Marcheka (El-Cap of Crimea), Shan-Kaya, Ai-Petri,
leading on the top.Paragilmen, Angarka, and Sokol (Falcon).