Pros and Cons of Hand Strength Grip Tests For Rock Climbers

Typically, hand strength is tested using a piece ofindividuals must repeat the test exactly the same
equipment called a hand dynamometer. There areway every time.
numerous styles and types of dynamometers but- The dynamometer must be adjusted to the hand
they are all designed basically the same. The triggersize of the individual, which can result in improper
of the device is squeezed with maximum effort andresults if not done properly.
held for five seconds.- The dynamometer does not isolate hand strength
Results are determined from the best of severalalone as it requires the use of forearm strength as
tests after allowing a minimum of at least 15 secondswell.
recovery time between each attempt. Improvement- Final results are greatly determined by an individual's
is measured by comparing results of previous test tomotivation for completing the test.
current tests. Assuming that ongoing training isAlthough there appear to be both advantages and
practised between tests, improvements shoulddisadvantages to using a dynamometer to measure
register on the dynamometer. The validity of testhand strength, it is still the most reliable method
results obtained using dynamometers is sometimesavailable. Exercising the hand regularly can improve
questioned as there are various conditions that canand maintain hand grip strength.
affect the outcome.Simple hand strength exercises include squeezing a
Here is a brief rundown of the pros and cons oftennis ball or bean bag for 8-10 repetitions. Hand
using this type of hand grip strength test.pushing exercises can be done anywhere any time
Proswithout equipment. Simply place your hands together
- The test is very simple and easy to administer forprayer style and apply light pressure, holding and
both right and left handed individuals.relaxing for several repetitions.
- The dynamometer is a widely used and acceptedHand grip exercises can help to increase the forearm
strength testing device so there is a concise andstrength that is essential to rock climbing and
consistent score chart.bouldering. Hanging from a chin up bar is a great grip
Consexercise but so is simply walking while gripping hand
- Users must be sure to recalibrate theweights.
dynamometer as necessary to ensure accurateThe most important element to remember is to
results.include a variety of exercises in your work outs. Try
- Rest periods between tests must always be theto incorporate hand, wrist, finger and forearm
same to ensure accuracy.exercises into each workout. This will ultimately
- Techniques and arm positions can vary widely fromprovide the best training for overall strength.
test to test. To be certain that results are true,