| Once bouldering (climbing just a few meters above | | | | move -or a series of moves. |
| the ground) was rock climbing's greatest secret, | | | | So - did you do the move or not? If not, what could |
| known to the few and practiced only by the elite. In | | | | you have done differently? If yes, could you have |
| the late 1950s and early 1960s, the visionary John Gill | | | | done it differently - and better? What if you pivoted |
| took rock climbing standards from V2 to V9 - or | | | | here... heel-hooked there? At your limit, the slightest |
| even harder. When E2 was cutting edge for | | | | difference in body position can mean the difference |
| rock-climbers in the UK and 5.10 was emerging in the | | | | between impossible and relative ease of ascent. |
| US, Gill was pulling moves that would not have been | | | | (At your limit) one to six moves will give you power. |
| out of place on rock climbs of E10 and 5.14. Gill was | | | | (At your limit) six to twelve moves will give you |
| farther ahead of his time than anyone I can think of | | | | power-endurance. (At your limit) more than twelve |
| in any discipline. | | | | moves will give you endurance. Obviously most |
| If you want to improve your rock climbing, chances | | | | bouldering is one to six moves. But experiment with |
| are you will need better technique and more power. | | | | longer sequences. And always remember Wolfgang |
| Bouldering can be used to improve both. Notice that I | | | | Gullich's immortal dictum, "Without power, there is no |
| mentioned technique first, then power. If you get | | | | power endurance!" |
| power first, then it's highly likely that your technique | | | | Bouldering can be low-ball (roughly up to six moves, |
| will remain shoddy at worst, indifferent at best. | | | | three meters) or high-ball, (above this). You can |
| Please - get technique first. | | | | boulder parts of traverses or the entirety of long |
| Think of bouldering as rock climbing's 'laboratory', | | | | traverses. You can even boulder sections of project |
| where you play around in well-nigh perfect safety. | | | | routes. But, however you practice it, bouldering is |
| And make sure it is safe. If outside, use a mat and | | | | your laboratory, your 'realm of the possible'. Lessons |
| spotters, if necessary. If inside, make sure the mats | | | | - and power - taken from bouldering will enhance |
| are thick and that you will land on one if you come | | | | your climbing 'game', whatever that is. You may be |
| off. Never boulder in an unsafe environment! | | | | the most diehard trad climber imaginable. Bouldering |
| In bouldering, rock climbing's 'laboratory' you are free | | | | will enable you to crush 'stopper' moves. John Gill was |
| to push the limits of your physical ability. You don't | | | | 20 years ahead of his time. Fortunately we don't |
| have to worry about the protection or whether | | | | have to re-discover what he learned - bouldering |
| you're going to 'top out'. All you have to think about | | | | works! |
| is 'the move'. All you have to do is execute the | | | | |