| In rock climbing, going from one level of difficulty to | | | | yourself, "What's stopping me? Is it fear of the |
| another can be daunting. It can be equally daunting | | | | unknown? Is it my confidence? Is it my technique? Is |
| going from one type of climbing feature or climbing | | | | it power, power-endurance, endurance?" |
| area to another. As an example, many experienced | | | | You could throw a rope down an E2 and top-rope it. |
| traditional climbers find bolt protected sport routes | | | | You could abseil down one and have a look. You |
| alarmingly physical, while many sport climbers find | | | | could just try a well protected one and see what |
| trad climbing scary. If you've just climbed indoors, | | | | happens. If you get up it OK, then why not try |
| just going outside may seem really scary. Transitions | | | | another? Why not aim to consolidate at E2 now, |
| from inside to outside, from bolted to trad, or from | | | | rather than E1, by climbing six or eight or 10 routes |
| trad to bolted, need to be sensitively managed. | | | | at the new grade. Then you may feel ready for E3. |
| Usually that means dropping your grade. If you've | | | | So let's imagine you've built up a 'grade pyramid' of 15 |
| only climbed inside and F6a+ (5.10c) is your limit, then | | | | E1s, 10 E2s and 6 E3s. Do you feel ready for E4? |
| don't try F6a+s outside. Start with F4s and F5s (5.7 | | | | Maybe - maybe not. Only you can decide. But you've |
| to 5.9) and work up. | | | | built up consistency and you will have built up |
| If you're going from one level of difficulty to another, | | | | confidence. You will be in a much better position than |
| in the same climbing medium, probably the best way | | | | a climber contemplating his first E4, when he's only |
| is to use grade pyramids. For instance, if you've | | | | done two E1s, one E2 and one E3. Your solidity of |
| climbed E1 (5.9/5.10) but want to move into E2 (solid | | | | experience will protect you from those 'rogue' routes |
| 5.10), then ask yourself, "How many E1s have I | | | | that lurk at all grades for the unwary. |
| climbed in the last six months?" If it's only one or | | | | With sport climbing, grade pyramids are usually easier |
| two, then you haven't really consolidated at the | | | | to arrange. You may have done 20 F6bs (5.10d), 15 |
| grade. Sure, you might get up an E2 and maybe an | | | | F6b+s (5.11a), 10 F6cs (5.11b) and five F6c+s (5.11c). |
| E3 but, unless you consolidate, i.e. climb more at each | | | | Are you ready for your first F7a (5.11d)? Maybe, |
| grade, you're likely to get caught out. Conversely, if | | | | maybe not. But again, your grade pyramid puts you |
| you've climbed dozens of E1s and never tried an E2, | | | | in a far better position than the guy who's just done |
| you're likely to stagnate. | | | | two F6bs and one F6c. |
| There's no rock climbing law about this, but I'd take | | | | In climbing, sometimes we made big advances and |
| as a rule of thumb doing at least six routes at a | | | | sometimes we progress by incremental gains. Grade |
| given grade for 'mild consolidation'. So, if you've | | | | pyramids are a fantastic way of proceeding by |
| climbed 6 E1s recently, all onsight (without falls) and | | | | incremental gains and getting us through those grade |
| you're feeling confident, why not try an E2? If you're | | | | ceilings that appear so daunting in advance and so |
| not confident, maybe do 10 E1s. But then ask | | | | harmless in retrospect. |