| The English rock-climber John Dunne was renowned | | | | low walls, just above the ground, in a position of |
| for being, let's say, rather on the large side. That | | | | maximum safety (but still, please, take care). Use the |
| didn't stop him climbing E9 and F8c. People used to | | | | toe of your climbing shoe as a precision instrument. |
| wonder about his weight when they should have | | | | Pivot through on it and push your entire body from it. |
| been wondering about his stupendous rock climbing | | | | This is what Mike Lea, a former UK national climbing |
| footwork. Precision - like you wouldn't believe! | | | | team coach, used to call, "Building your feet." Try it |
| In rock climbing, as in every other human activity, | | | | and see the difference. |
| people search for the instantaneous improvement, | | | | Many people shuffle one foot after the other. It may |
| the 'magic bullet'. In climbing, if I had to cite a magic | | | | make more sense to 'step through', e.g. if you're |
| bullet for technique, it would be improved footwork. | | | | traversing leftwards, bring your right foot leftwards, |
| I've seen world-class climbers with terrible footwork. | | | | past your left foot. And remember - you don't need |
| (How much better could they have been, one | | | | to climb facing straight on to the rock. You can use |
| wonders, if only...) | | | | the inside or the outside front edge of your climbing |
| You may have just started rock climbing or you may | | | | shoe. You can use heel-hooks and toe hooks. |
| have been at it for decades. I'd be amazed if you | | | | When I started climbing in the 1960s, it was in big |
| couldn't improve your footwork (and that includes me | | | | boots. Precision? Forget it! Modern climbing shoes are |
| too!) Better footwork means less effort on your | | | | like Formula 1 racing cars, often driven by novice |
| fingers and arms. Put simply, you can stay on the | | | | drivers. Make the most of your climbing shoes and |
| rock for a lot longer without a rest. On a route near | | | | you will notice a huge difference. |
| your limit, this will often mean the difference | | | | A last point (for male climbers, especially novice male |
| between success and failure. | | | | climbers). Forget 'pulling yourself' up the rock. Instead |
| On the rock, most climbers think about going from | | | | watch women climbers of all abilities. In general, |
| handhold to handhold. You would do far better to | | | | women have massively better footwork than men. |
| think about going from foothold to foothold. It's as | | | | But, with rare exceptions, really good climbers of |
| though peoples' brains think, "Hands!" - especially | | | | both genders have a lightness and precision of |
| when they're scared. They would be better thinking | | | | footwork that's a marvel to behold. Watch them and |
| "Feet!" At their best, footholds may give you a | | | | learn. Above all, in climbing and in life, never stop |
| hands-off rest, i.e. full recovery. | | | | learning! |
| A good way of improving footwork is traversing on | | | | |