Understanding Bouldering Grades and Rating Systems

Bouldering, though using much of the same skills andsystem changed to include lower grade problems, the
techniques as climbing, is truly a sport of its own.Peak System has lost favour with many climbers.
Routes are usually designed low to the ground andWhen you see B-Graded problems on a conversion
instead of using ropes for safety, climbers arechart, it is actually this Peak grading system that you
spotted by a partner. Climbers manoeuvre over largeare seeing. Found most often in North America, most
boulders that are often found at the base of crags.climbers found the methodology used in this system
Originally climbing over these boulders provided ato be inconsistent and confusing.
means of warming up for a longer climb, but it hasFont Grades
since developed into a sport in its own right.Developed in France, the Font or Fontainebleau
Bouldering routes or problems, as they are mostGrading System is most often seen in European
often called, are graded according to difficulty levels,courses. Grades range from 1a to 8c, with the lower
and over the years, several grading systems havenumbers representing the easier problems. This
emerged.system of grading was originally developed to
V Gradesencompass the sandstone boulders of France and for
This was the very first grading system developedthis reason, many climbers argue that it is not a
for bouldering. Grades in this scale range form 0-16,grading system relevant to universal bouldering. As a
with 16 being the highest, or most difficult value.result, many have found the ratings confusing, finding
Although a grade of V0 is considered an easythat what should have been a fairly easy problem
bouldering course, keep in mind that it would still bejudging by its Font Grade, turned out to actually be
considered a good challenge for the novice boulderer.quite difficult. Consequently, this system, though still
Indoor bouldering has started to grade problems aswidely used in Europe, has not garnered the
well and have included a grade of V-B whichinternational acceptance that the V Grading system
represents a course that is suitable for a beginner. Vhas found.
Grading was developed in, and remains most widely inWhile it appears that some controversy remains over
use in the United States.which system is best and most accurate for grading
Peak Bouldering Gradesbouldering problems, it is ultimately up to the individual
This method of grading bouldering problems wasclimber to be educated and informed as to the
developed by Allan Williams in an attempt to includedifficulty level of any bouldering problem being
grades for easier problems that were not included inconsidered.
the V Grade System. However, as the V Grading